Test cook Russell Selander stands watch over three skillets full of chicken strips frying in different fats as he works on a recipe for paleo fried chicken. Why three skillets when one Dutch oven is our standard method? Having used big batches of canola oil in previous testing in order to nail down his brining and breading processes, Russell is switching to smaller quantities of paleo-favored fats in order to determine which varieties deliver the best results. Here, he’s experimenting with shallow-frying his chicken in ghee, coconut oil, and duck fat.